Moving back to the U.S- needed equipment power supplies
Question:
I am moving back to the U.S. (to NYC) after a 6-year stint in Europe. I am wondering about power supply issues. I managed to keep most of my U.S. components (amp excluded, of course) nicely humming in Europe, using PS Audio's P300 Power Plant (set to accept 220 Volts and output 110 Volts for the U.S. components). My amp was built by the infamous Randy White of Llano Audio. The amp is great, but, as is easy to find out, Randy White has bailed on his many dissatisfied customers, probably with lots of cash from pre-paid order to keep him warm at night. The amps were custom-build by Randy after I moved to Europe, so he incorporated power supplies to accommodate European electricity. This is the issue: I have no idea how to proceed in getting the amps converted to U.S. electricity. Is there an easy way to change the power supply? Should I rely on a PS Audio component? Will any of these take 110 as an input and produce 220 as an output, capable to drive an amp? Or would a simple power transformer work? (By the way, the simple step-down power transformer to power my U.S. equipment in France was a disaster sonically, hence the replacement with the wonderful PS Audio Power Pant 300).
Answer:
_If your new place has 2 separate 110 lines in to the main box , you can
easily have an electrician wire in a 220 outlet for you. Saves the
hassle having the unit's power supply changed.
_Don't bother converting any equipment that doesn't have a line voltage
switch. Just get a 120 to 220 volt transformer. They solve the voltage problem quite
nicely.
The way they get 220 volt residential AC power in Europe is by choosing
distribution transformers with different turns ratios than we use in the US.
Adding another properly-rated transformer to the distribution system to
adjust this is proven technology.
You probably don't have any equipment that is dependent on 50 Hz power, but
in the old days turntables and tape players could be problematical. Have
you thought about that?
Rule of thumb is that any piece of electronics (i.e., no rotating powered
parts) with a 50 Hz power transformer will be just a tad overbuilt when
operated at 60 Hz. IOW, no harm done. Vast overkill for most applications. But, it seems like you've got more
money than technical knowlege or common sense. Hey, they are expensive, they
can be unrelaible, they can make your system look more impressive, the high
end ragazines rave about them, why not?Here's one of many potential sources of 120 -> 220 converters. First hit in
google for me:
http://www.220-electronics.com/Transformers/trans/prod.html
_So, the apartment has a gas stove and central AC from the building
chillers?
Unless the building is relatively ancient, this would not be 'to code'
since about 1975 or so.
A couple of things:
Depending on the design of the power-supply, you would need to be sure
that feeding it US-type 220V power would not give you a 'hot chassis'.
This would be an unusual result for a transformer-type power-supply
and it would depend on how the ground system is managed. But check
anyway.
There are a variety of step-up transformers available, you will want
one that is rated well above the anticipated load such that it will
not heat up or hum in any objectionable way. Ideally, you will find an
isolation-type step-up transformer which will be considerably more
costly (and larger) than the much more typical auto-tranformer type.
It is entirely possible and even likely that the transformer already
installed can be rewired for 120V power. It would be unusual that any
custom builder that sells internationally would bother to stock
several types of transformers for several line voltages when for no
more than a few pennies per unit, he could have a universal type
transformer fit for Japan (100V), Europe (240V) the Middle East
(varies all over the place from 100V to 240V, from 50hz to 60hz and
even from block to block in the older towns) and the US (120V). So,
try to investigate that possibility before jumping to the conclusion
that you need an outboard transformer.
One hopes there are no line-frequency clock functions in your
equipment as they will run fast on US power in any case. The side
benefit, however, is that a transformer designed against 50hz will run
very slightly cooler on 60hz.
All kinds of equipment available here (and elsewhere):
http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/step-up-transformer.html
Remember, too much capacity is infinitely better than too little, or
even "just right"... heat and load are the enemies of transformers
specifically and things-electrical in general.
_This shouldn't be too difficult to make the basic and essential
determination as to what you'll need to do.
You'll need a DVM or other voltmeter/ohmeter.
If you don't have one, the one on sale for $3.95 at Harbor Freight
(for example) is quite sufficient.
Here is the first test.
Take the amp that is wired for 220v and with the ohmeter take one
lead and connect it to the chassis. Then check each prong on the
Euro AC plug and see if any are reading ZERO (same reading as if
the leads are touching each other. Confirm that you have a good
connection to ground by touching the test probes to two separate
places on the the chassis.
You may have to check online to see the wiring standard for the
country you were in... if the plug has 3 or more prongs. If it has
only two, then IF one of the two prongs reads ZER0 to ground, then
the AC has one side of the 220v AC mains wired to ground (extremely
unlikely) IF there are three prongs, one ought to be ZERO to ground,
NOT two!
IF the readings show that one lead of the AC mains is NOT connected
to the chassis THEN it is safe to just use a basic step up transformer.
Or the Power plant thingie.
Now, I could tell you in a few minutes if the power supply has split
primary windings - meaning it can be wired for 120vac. It is LIKELY
that it does. Any half decent tech can figure this out in a short time
and rewire it.
I live 2.5hr north of NYC. I can do this. I know someone in Bergen
county NJ who can make the determination and if feasible, do the job.
Btw, if there is a 220v airconditioner outlet anywhere, that will work.
(they look like 110v outlets, but have a pin perpendicular to the usual
orientation)
It is really unusual to wire subpanels (your apartment is a subpanel)
with a single phase 120vac only. That puts a huge asymmetrical load
on one phase. You can look at ur apartment's sub panel - if it is fuses
then it will have TWO "main fuses" - big amperage ones that shut off all
the other fuses, actually 1/2 of the smaller fuses per "big one". Or,
if it has breakers, then it will have a main breaker - if the subsequent
breakers are left/right down the panel, then it is almost certain that
240vac is being fed to the panel.
Any electrician can tell you that in a second or less.
I'd suggest that you take off the cover to the breaker box and look,
but if you don't already know to do this, then DONT.
The guy from the building probably either has no clue or doesn't want
you to muck about with it, or would rather not be involved
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